August is not
the month one would chose to visit Morocco, but when Eitan was to be an
official at the World Bridge Championships, we went. And it is hot, 46°C on our first day.
The other thing
to know it is a little like being in Sinai, throw away your watch
because time
is slower here; registering at a hotel takes ages. But everyone is so
pleasant
after the initial annoyance everything is just fine. On arriving late
at the Movenpick
hotel in Marrakesh we wanted something to eat. Our cokes were served
with
delicious, not salty olives. No nuts but the waitress brought us three
breadsticks which was just enough to tide us over.
After a breakfast
of coffee and croissants – yes I did sit next to Eitan – we joined
our
host
Oumaima and driver Muhammed for the 4 hour ride to the town.
Our first stop
was to see the Shahad Dam, such a welcome site in that thirsty land. It
looked
enormous, but Oumaima told us there had not been rain for 3 years. I
was heart stricken
to see young boys either on foot or riding a donkey, clutching water
containers
to take home. So much effort for so little water. We were told that the
parents
would come in the evening if necessary. To me it looked as if one jerry
can
held enough water to flush one of our toilets. How uncaring and
wasteful we are
of water. Our friends Terry and Carol Kessel are involved with
Innovation
Africa digging wells for villages in Africa, making such a difference
in the villagers’
lives.
Our second stop
was at the Rif Motel for a light breakfast. Even this motel, like our
modest
hotel in Fes had a swimming pool.
Our host transferred us to a local guide who led us
through
one of the gates and up and up the sloping paths of the old city.
It is
a local
tourist destination and not once were we encouraged to look or buy
something;
we were not targeted tourists. There were drinking fountains with clear
running
water from the mountains and the
locals all stopped to drink from them.
Most of
the buildings, especially in the medina are blue and white. There are
many
theories why. In C15 both Muslims and Jews fled Andalusia and many
found refuge
in Chefchauoen,
where they lived in harmony. For Jews the blue is meant
to ward
off the evil eye, it is the colour of the tzizit, represents the sky
and belief
in God’s mercy, and also blue repels mosquitoes(!). For Muslims white
signifies
peace and purity.
But today people are encouraged to blue the buildings
to attract
tourism.
Walking inside
the medina was relatively cool as light but not direct sunshine
penetrated
where we walked and the blue is a very relaxing colour. Shops
lined the alleys displaying jewelry, clothes, and
souvenirs. Hats with colorful blobs were from mountain people,
designating an
available young woman; today a must for tourists. Wraps were tied in
different
ways to show a married or single woman. And then there were the lavish
beaded
wedding dresses. We eventually reached the main square, Place Outa el
Hammam
and casbah, lined with restaurants. Again a three course menu, again
couscous
without gravy. Luckily our host came to the square to fetch us as we
had no
idea where to meet the van.
Not an amazing
destination but very interesting to see a destination for local
tourists. And then another four hour drive
back to our
hotel in Fez
The
receptionist wanted to know if we wanted to go and eat at Palais de Fes
again.
Definitely no and no to another three
course set menu. We chose a steak house Duplex Plaza.
The following
morning we had breakfast and bought bananas to eat with the Pringles we
would
buy on the train back to Marrakesh.
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